Pool Chemicals

Saltwater Systems for Hot Tubs

In the market for a hot tub? In recent years, saltwater systems have flooded the market claiming to be the “natural” or “chemical-free” alternative to sanitize your hot tub. But are these claims accurate? Are saltwater systems really better? Let’s consider the facts so you can make the best decision when purchasing your next hot tub.

Through a process called “electrolysis,” electricity is used to convert dissolved salt (sodium chloride) into chlorine or sodium bromide (which converts to bromine). In other words, a saltwater system—by design—generates the same chemical sanitizers used in non-saltwater systems. Generating chlorine or bromine from saltwater makes sense in the cool water of a swimming pool, especially if a homeowner struggles with granular chlorine dosing or other chemical additives, such as UV inhibitors. But there are more than a few reasons why saltwater systems are not the best fit for hot tubs.

A salt system in a pool as opposed to a hot tub is not easily comparable. Here are some differences to consider when comparing the average hot tub with the typical backyard pool:

  • The average hot tub, at only 400 gallons, is much smaller than a pool.

  • Hot tub water is much warmer, up to 104⁰F (40⁰C), causing bathers to sweat more and excrete more organics.

  • Less water and more organics means that sanitizer is consumed more quickly.

  • Open pools allow sanitizers to vent (or, “off-gas”) whereas hot tubs are covered when not in use.

  • Unlike most pools, hot tubs have internal metal components such as water heaters, heater elements and jet face escutcheons (the metal rings around the jets).

  • Pools are typically made of fiberglass or concrete, whereas hot tubs have an acrylic or co-bonded polymer shell.

  • Water in an open pool is exposed to more natural UV light than in a hot tub.

This differences are important when it comes to the salt system. Two people in a 10,000 gallon pool is obviously much different than two people in a 400 gallon hot tub. Less water volume means a higher concentration of dissolved organic compounds (such as sweat, skin oil and bacteria) which uses up sanitizer more quickly. So to remain effective, a saltwater system in a hot tub would need to generate—and maintain—a higher sanitizer concentration than that of a pool.

In the high-temperature environment of a hot tub, it is quite possible that a chlorine or bromine generator may not produce enough sanitizer to keep up with demand. In fact, some salt system manufacturers admit you may have to add additional sanitizer to properly maintain safe water! If the generator continues to run without people in the tub (meaning there is not enough dissolved organics to use up the extra sanitizer), it may actually overproduce chlorine for a period of time. “Over-chlorination” may lead to excess chlorine gas trapped underneath the cover. Not only can this degrade foam pillows and the underside of the spa cover to the point of bleaching, it may corrode exposed metal accents (including stainless steel), and/or dull the color of hot tub acrylic surfaces.

When salt is added to spa water, it is not immediately converted into sanitizer (through the process of electrolysis). Many salt system manufacturers claim the amount of salt is at a “minimal level” in the water. However, salt systems require about 1,750 to 3,000 parts-per-million to work, or about triple the amount of salt found in tap water. Salt causes corrosion and rust by attacking metal and breaking it down. When metal components inside a hot tub—such as heaters, heater elements, and jet escutcheons—are exposed to high sodium doses corrosion may occur. This can shorten the lifespan of internal metal components, resulting in poor performance and costly repair bills.

The fact of the matter is that spa water needs to be sanitized in order to be safe. Smaller, controlled doses of bromine or chlorine, an ozone generator, and perhaps spa minerals (or conditioners) to soften the water have been known to be the best current approach to maintaining safe water in your hot tub!

Tips for Properly Storing your Chemicals

Safely storing pool chemicals is an important part of keeping your pool environment safe. Pool chemicals are essential to keep your pool water clean and clear and free of contaminants. However, they can be dangerous if they aren’t stored or handled properly. Additionally, chemicals can be costly so it is important you store them properly.

Over time, pool chemicals can naturally break down. This process can be accelerated if the chemicals are not stored properly. Here are some tips to make sure your pool chemicals are stored in a safe environment:

  1. Do Not Reuse or Switch Containers: Reusing pool chemical containers or transferring chemicals to another container is never recommended as it can create a dangerous situation. When storing pool chemicals, always use the original containers with their labels clearly legible. Each container was designed for the specific storage requirements of the chemical it contains, so it is never advisable to switch containers. Even if you’re handling the same type of chemical, mixing a new batch of a chemical with a leftover batch of the same chemical can lead to a reaction from the older residue, or create fumes.

  2. Keep Chemicals Away From Flammable Items: It should go without saying but, outdoor storage areas for pool chemicals should be out of the reach of anything flammable. Keep any gas-powered equipment, like your lawnmower, in a completely different location. The storage site should also be away from sources of heat, like an outdoor fire pit or grill.

  3. Provide Plenty of Ventilation: Choose a location with ample ventilation for storing pool chemicals. In areas with little airflow, dangerous fumes can quickly accumulate if chemicals do start to react.

  4. Avoid Exposure to Sunlight and Humidity: When considering where to store pool chemicals, the best storage locations are areas out of direct sunlight. Pool chemicals react poorly to sunshine and heat, and require a dark, cool environment to control for any potential reactions. Humidity or even small amounts of pool water can cause chemical reactions that could lead to dangerous fumes.

A General Guide to Pool Chemicals

Pool season is here! We’ll be going through a general overview of the main chemicals used in pools and spas and what they do. Not every pool and spa is the same so it is always best to consult Colley’s knowledgeable pool experts when looking to purchase chemicals from us!

Chlorine: Probably the best-known pool chemical, chlorine is a sanitizer that keeps algae and bacteria at bay. It comes in liquid, powder, and tablet forms. When water reacts with chlorine, it forms hydrochloric acid, which is the compound that fights bacteria.

Shock: Shocking a pool is the act of "unbinding" or oxidizing the inactive chlorine (chloramines). Shocking can be done with increased dosages of chlorine or MPS (sodium monopersulfate) non-chlorine shock. When added to the pool, whatever chemical is used starts a process called superchlorination. Shocking the pool helps kill all the bacteria and sanitizer byproducts. Usually sold as a separate product, shock is used about once a week or every two weeks, depending on pool usage.

Bromine: This is an alternative to chlorine, but typically used in warmer water such as that used in hot tubs. Because hot tubs tend to have a higher pH level (alkalinity), and bromine works better at a higher pH level, bromine is more effective in warmer water.

Cyanuric Acid: The sun’s ultraviolet rays can speed up the decomposition of chlorine in the water. Cyanuric acid helps slow that process down by stabilizing, or protecting, the chlorine. However, there is a limit to the amount of cyanuric acid that can be in the pool: too much can also slow the destruction of bacteria. Some chlorine products come with cyanuric acid added; be sure to check before adding cyanuric acid separately.

Algaecide: Often copper-based, these polymers serve as a preventative barrier against algae. After the pool has been shocked, algaecide is added to keep the algae from returning.

Calcium chloride: Your pool requires a minimum level of calcium hardness before molecules start to look elsewhere for its minerals and eat away at your tile and metal. Calcium chloride will increase calcium hardness.