Stains In Swimming Pools

What Causes Pool Stains?

Before choosing and applying the correct pool stain remover, you need to determine what stained your pool. The most common pool stains generally fall into two categories:

  1. Organic Stains: Organic materials like leaves, berries, and other organic debris can leave stains if they’re allowed to settle and left too long on your pool walls or floor.

  2. Metal Stains: Several types of metal can accidentally be introduced into your pool. Maybe your primary water source is a well. Or you have corroded copper pipes in your water system. Rusted metal accessories, parts, and equipment can also cause stains.

Once you determine what type of stain you have, you can decide which type of pool stain remover to use. The best way to figure that out is by the stain’s color.

Identify Your Pool Stains:

Green and Brown Pool Stains: These greenish-brown stains are most likely organic stains caused by leaves or other plant matter.

Red or Deep Blue Stains: These are more than likely from brightly colored berries or budding trees/flowers nearby. They’re the most likely culprits if you have berry-bearing trees or bushes near the pool.

Orange, Green, or Blue Stains: These could be caused by organic matter like leaves or berries. But if there’s nothing like that around your pool, they were likely caused by copper, which can be present in well water or Pool Heater. Or if you have copper piping anywhere in your plumbing system, it may be corroded, which can also cause copper stains. This type of staining can also be caused by copper-based algaecides. That’s why we always recommend using a polyquat algaecide like Algacide All 60, Algae Complete, or Colley’s 60.

Red or Brown Stains: This combination of reddish-brown stains is an indication of iron in the water causing iron stains. If you fill your pool with well water, it likely contains iron. Or perhaps you have iron somewhere in your pool area, such as a fence or rusty coping/top rails. If it rusts, and the rust makes its way into your pool somehow (when it rains, for example), you can end up with rust stains.

Purple or Black Stains: This dark color combination (mainly purple stains) is caused by manganese. This naturally occurring metal is present in well water. But it can also be found in municipal water supplies. The water is treated to reduce the amount of manganese, but it’s not completely removed.

 

Determine the Cause of The Pool Stains:

Once you’ve got a good idea of what caused the staining in your pool, you’ll need to test your theory and confirm the source of the problem.

Organic Pool Stain Test:

If you suspect an organic stain, apply a small amount of chlorine directly to it. If it’s truly organic, it should go away easily.

Metal Pool Stain Test:

Chlorine has little to no effect on metals. This is why some pool accessories, such as ladders, are made of metal. If you suspect a metal stain, apply some ascorbic acid—vitamin C—powder to the stain. If the stain is removed or at least lightened by the powder, it was caused by metal.

How to Remove Pool Stains:

Identifying the stains and their sources if only half the battle. Next is removing them.

How To Remove Organic Swimming Pool Stains

As the identification test indicated, chlorine is the solution here. But you’ll need to super-chlorinate the water because the amount you use for regular sanitizing isn’t enough to remove stains. To do that, you’ll use pool shock. Bags can be used or liquid.

  1. Test and balance the water: Use test strips or a liquid test kit to ensure the alkalinity is between 100 parts per million (ppm) and 150 ppm, which 125 ppm being ideal, and the pH is between 7.4 and 7.6, with 7.5 being ideal.

  2. Shock the pool: If you’re dealing with just one small stain, a regular dose of shock should take care of the problem. But if you have multiple or large stains, to get rid of them with just one round of shocking, use a triple dose. This means adding 3 pounds of calcium hypochlorite shock for every 10,000 gallons of water.

  3. Brush the pool: Use a stiff pool brush to thoroughly scrub the stains. It’s OK if you don’t remove them completely at this point.

  4. Run the pump: Allow the shock to circulate throughout the pool for at least eight hours or overnight.

  5. Brush the pool again: During those eight hours, or the next day, scrub the stains again.

  6. Check the stains: Are they gone? Great, you’re done! Are they still visible? Repeat the process.

Important: Remember always to shock at dusk or night for best results.

How To Get Rid of Metal Pool Stains:

 

Metal stains can be a little more difficult to get rid of, but it’s not impossible.

  1. Test the water for metals: It’s a good idea to find out what kind of metal has stained your pool. It can make a difference in the type of pool stain remover you need to get. Your best bet is to take a sample of your pool water to Colley’s Pools and Spas and have them test for metals in the water.

  2. Get a metal pool stain remover: Look for one that targets the type of metal that’s stained your pool. We recommend using Stain Free by Natural Chemistry, Lo-Chlor Multi Stain Remover, or Pool Magnet Plus with Sparkle Up.

  3. Follow the instructions: Each pool stain remover will work a little differently, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the best results.

Preventing Pool Stains:

Once you’ve removed those stains, you’ll want to keep them from coming back. It’ll keep your pool looking nice, and will save you the extra work of removing them.

How to Prevent Organic Pool Stains

With just a little pool care, you can keep organic contaminants from making their mark on your pool.

  1. Keep the pool water balanced at all times, especially the alkalinity, pH, and sanitizer levels.

  2. Practice proper pool cleaning by using a robotic pool cleaner or by manually vacuuming on a regular basis.

  3. Skim the pool surface often to keep leaves, twigs, and other organic debris from sinking to and settling on the bottom of the pool where they can stain.

  4. Move plants that bear fruit away from the pool area. If you plan to do some pool landscaping, make sure you plant fruit-bearing trees and shrubs well away from the pool.

  5. Check the pool regularly for stains. If you find any, take steps to remove them while they’re still small.

How to Prevent Metal Pool Stains:

 

It’ll take a little more pool maintenance, but you can keep metals from making your pool look ugly.

  1. Test your water source for metals. Use a hose filter when filling or refilling your pool if they’re present.

  2. Use a metal sequestrant in your pool. This chemical binds with metal particles to keep them from settling on pool surfaces and to make it possible for them to be removed by the pool filter.

  3. Maintain your pool plumbing. If any parts of it use copper pipes, check them regularly for corrosion, and replace them when necessary.

  4. Keep the pH level in your pool steady. This is especially important if you have copper in your water. A low pH level will make the water acidic, which will corrode copper, oxidize it, and stain your pool.

Important: A metal sequestrant is not a metal pool stain remover. It can help prevent stains by making it easier for metals to be removed from the water. But once you have a metal stain, a sequestrant will not remove it.

What is a Biguanide? Why is it used in Pools and Spas?

Biguanide is polyhexamethylene biguanide or shortened as PHMB.  Two popular brands of biguanide for spas are Soft-Swim & Baquacil.  These generally contain 20% PHMB.  These products are EPA approved for use in spas, however unlike the halogen-based sanitizers (chlorine & bromine) they are not also oxidizers.

Biguanides attached to single cell organisms, notably bacteria, causing the cell wall to break. Essentially, the bacteria start leaking and die.

 

Benefits of Using Biguanides:

So what exactly do biguanides bring to the table, or pool rather, that chlorine doesn’t? For one- money. Using a biguanide, like Baquacil, is rather expensive. Generally speaking, pool maintenance isn’t cheap but in comparison to chlorine, even biguanides are pricey. As mentioned before, if you choose the biguanide route, you also have to purchase additional oxidizers. That means more money out of your pocket. One of the true benefits is that, unlike chlorine, it does not break down in high temperatures. Additionally, biguanides do not have a lingering smell and does not erode bathing suits and vinyl liners.

The Downfall of Biguanides 

In addition to cost, biguanides also have a tendency to cloud and/or cause foaming. Typically, pool owners aren’t using enough oxidizers to rid the slime and mold problem that’s a by-product of the system. One of the biggest issues with using biguanides is its resistance to microorganisms in the water. Over time, some microorganisms become biguanide-resistant. Usually, shocking your pool is the only way to rid your pool of these microorganisms. However, shocking your pool also destroys all of the biguanide in your water. It’s definitely a lose-lose situation.

Converting Biguanide (BioGuard Soft-Swim or Baquacil) to Chlorine

 

Using BioGuard Oxysheen®

1.    With the filter running, adjust the pH into a range of 6.8-7.0 ppm. Isolate the heater from the rest of the circulation system. (NOTE: You must be able to isolate the heater to drop the pH this low). If you cannot isolate the heater, you can keep pH at 7.2. You will just need to repeat step 3 more times with the slightly higher pH.

2.    Apply 12 lbs. of Oxysheen® per 25,000 gallons with the pump running. Circulate 48 hours. The water may turn green and cloudy.

3.    Test the biguanide level. If any residual remains, apply 3 lbs. of Oxysheen® per 10,000 gallons and circulate 48 hours, then retest.

4.    When no biguanide residual is shown on the test, remove a bucket of water from the pool and sprinkle a small amount of Super Shock or Liquid Chlorine into the bucket. If water discolors or clouds, repeat step 3 until no reaction occurs in the bucket test.

5.    When you have confirmed no reaction occurs, perform a complete water analysis and balance according to the ALEX® Pro recommendations for your new sanitizer type.

6.    Backwash the filter and use Jack Magic Power Blue Cartridge or DE Filter Cleaner according to label instructions. For Sand Filter, the sand in the tank must be replaced with new sand.

NOTE: Shocking the pool each day with Burn Out® or Super Shock for approximately one week may be necessary to eliminate all chlorine demand and clear the water. If you would like faster results to clear the water, BioGuard Pool 911 would be recommended to clear and clean up the waters appearance.

How To Prime Your Pool Pump:

Pool pumps are the heart and soul of your pool equipment area. Without a fully functioning pool pump, water is not moving efficiently through the filtration equipment, or worse yet, its not moving at all. After the winter when lines have been blown out and vacated of all water in the plumbing, it can need a little extra help to get that pump to pull a full prime and run to the best of its ability. Always make sure to check the following small items first before actually beginning the pump priming process:

·         Check the Pot Lid O-ring – Always start here and make sure that the O-ring that seals under the lid of the pump is in good shape with no cracks and double check to make sure it is not stretched out or warn out in any way. Without a pump lid O-ring in good shape, the pump will pull air, rather than working harder to pull the water through the system. We do recommend lubricating the pot lid ring with Super Lube to ensure you get a good air tight seal.

·         Next, check your pump plugs. Typically, there are only two and can be found either on the front or the right-hand side of the wet end housing. Pull the plugs by twisting counter clockwise and unscrewing them. Make sure that the O-ring is on the pump plug and that it also has no damage or cracks in it. Or you will have the same issue of pumps pulling air rather than a prime. If the O-ring is damaged or missing, do not run the pump until you have replaced it. Make sure to lubricate these O-rings with Super Lube.

·         Make sure the pump basket is empty of all debris and doesn’t have any cracks in it or breaks that would allow for debris to have gotten through into the impeller chamber of the motor clogging the impeller. If the impeller gets infiltrated with debris, then it will not “throw” water as it should and the pump will not prime as it cannot discharge water efficiently.

·         Make sure all suction and return points in the pool are open. All returns should not be plugged and the skimmer and bottom drain should be free of debris. If you have valves leading into the pump, make sure they are in the open position.

Follow these steps once you have checked the above items off the list to prime the pump:

1.       Remove the pump lid and clean out the basket.

2.       Replace the pump basket and lubricate the O-ring under the lid if needed.

3.       Using a bucket, dump water into the pump basket area quickly until it reaches the top and begins to flood over the sides. (You can Fill the pump with the garden hose as well, but a bucket is more efficient to fill the pump faster.)

4.       Quickly replace the cap to trap as much water in that area of the pump as possible.

5.       Turn the pump power back on and watch through the glass of the lid as water begins to be pulled into the basket area. If you have a variable speed pump, make sure the rpms are at a high enough level to pull a prime, low speeds will not pull a prime. The prime will usually take a few moments to begin, just be patient with it as you listen to it gurgle and sputter a little. Once water fills the basket, the pump lid will work most of the air out of it. If there is still a large pocket of air in it, then there is an air leak somewhere between the pump lid and the plumbing running into the front of the pump.

6.       For cartridge and earth systems, you will need to open the air bleeder on top and bleed the air from the filter after the pump is running with water in it.

7.       Repeat steps 3-5 if the prime does not take. If you still cannot get it to go, we recommend calling to set up a service call to diagnose the problem.